Sterilising your Guinea Pig

When it comes to guinea pig sterilization, we all get the heeby-jeebies. But with advancement in the anaesthetic machines, drugs available and surgical techniques, you can feel more assured when you need to sterilize your sows now. 

Up to 80% of all female piggies get womb issues. Ovarian problems like cysts and excessive production of hormones are at the top of this list! These malfunctioning ovaries tend to produce large amounts of hormones which also then cause the uterus to change and greatly increases the risk of uterine cancer. 

With a simple technique of just removing the ovaries at an early age of 8months-1year, the risks of getting ovarian cysts, tumours, uterine cancers, breast tumours are reduced by over 60%!

The new technique involves 2 small incisions, about 1.5cm each on either side of the back to remove the ovaries in a quickie procedure under general anaesthesia. Piggies are usually up and eating within 1-2hours immediately after surgery. This recovery time (and costs) are similar to that of a dental procedure.

With ovarian cysts and uterine tumours, we normally have to perform a large 5-7cm incision, sometimes even 3 incisions to get all 3 portions out safely. This procedure takes a lot longer so the anaesthesia risks are higher and also has a longer recovery time. This is why we urge all sow owners to consider sterilizing early in life before health problems already occur. 

Common clinical signs that you might see in a piggy with ovarian disease:

1. Large round belly but no chance of pregnancy

2. Weight loss, spine and hip bones can be felt easily

3. Fur loss along either/both sides of the belly

4. Crusting or swelling of the nipples 

5. Change in urine colour- may have blood, brown discolouration

6. Pain when your piggy pees/poos, may squeak

7. Teeth grinding from pain

If you note any of the above symptoms, do speak to your vet as soon as possible. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SQUEEZE THE BELLY, there have been cases where the cysts are so large, they can rupture.

Speak to a cavy savvy vet about sterilizing your piggy for a longer and better quality of life!

What to feed your Rabbit?

Rabbits or Bunnies have open rooted teeth, meaning the teeth are growing throughout a rabbit's life. In the wild, a rabbit would spend most of its day chewing on grass and other fibrous foods. Not only does this wear down their teeth, the fiber also helps to maintain a healthy gastrointestinal system and prevents gut stasis. 

Providing our domestic bunny friends with lots of indigestible fiber will ensure that they get:

• Sufficient dental exercise- wear and tear of every growing teeth

• Reduce in boredom and behavioural problems (overgrooming, chewing on wires and furniture)

• Stimulation in gut motility

• Maintenance of healthy gastrointestinal tract bacterial flora

Bunny with severely overgrown upper cheek teeth (right side of photo).

Pellets usually do not provide enough of the above benefits.

Good types of hay include timothy, oaten and orchid grass hay. Alfalfa' should only be fed to pregnant, lactating does or juvenile rabbits (<1 year old) because of the high calcium content which could lead to formation of kidney and bladders stones!

There are also various cuts of hay to choose from. First cut hay is ideal for wearing down teeth but it is usually not very palatable and many bunnies dislike the coarseness nature of the hay. Second cut hay is probably the most commonly fed hay and is generally loved by most rabbits and the hay still has enough "toughness" to provide some degree of dental exercise. Third cut hay is usually not advised because of the fact that they do not do much for their dental health. 

Fresh greens should also make up as part of your rabbit's diet. Like any other species, variety is key and feeding the same type of vegetable to your pet everyday for the rest of its life is going to lead to some health problems too. Some good vegetables that you can consider in this rotation include: 

• Xiao bai cai

• Kang kong / Kangkong

• Kai lan

• Spinach

• Parsley

• Watercress

• Collard greens

• Cauliflower

• Broccoli

Depending on the body weight of your bunny, they can take up to 1 cup of greens per day. An important thing to note when introducing food to your bunny, is that all new greens should be given in small amounts first and your bunny's poo should be monitored closely. If you notice mucus (jelly coating), irregular sizing or soft stools, it is advised that you should immediately contact your vet.

Normal bunny droppings: Cecal pellets/cecotrophs/night poos which are rich in vitamins and should be ingested by your bun. Fecal matter which are firm and solid and should be big and round.

You may also like to check out these useful websites on diets for your bunny:

• http://rabbit.org/suggested-vegetables-and-fruits-for-a-rabbit-diet/

• http://rabbit.org/what-to-feed-your-rabbit/

• myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-care/what-to-feed-your-pet-rabbit/

• http://www.melbournerabbitclinic.com/wordpress/?page_id=314

• http://www.bunnywonderlandsg.com/tips/